Honeywell VISTA 21IP: Mounting system to the wall

Okay. Now we have our new Vista, brand new Honeywell Vista 21IP panel. We have fished our zone wires through this knock out in the can and we've got out siren, transformer, and keypad wires coming out of this hole. Both of these knockouts are in there for this very purpose, so you just kind of knock them out and you've got your hole. We've got our hole in the wall, with all our wires coming through. So we are now going to mount this new can, which is a slightly different size than our old can. Obviously, we want to make sure that the hole where the wires are coming through is going to be behind these holes, so we don't pinch these wires. We've got a level, make sure we do a nice clean installation here, and we're going to mark our four holes. Alright, I've got our hole marked. Hold the panel down. We're going to have to just feed the wires back through the hole. When we drill, we've got screws and wall anchors. And we've got our electric drill. So first, drill our four holes, making sure they're big enough for our anchors. We have a hammer to hammer in our anchors. And our last one. And we are now ready to mount the panel. Fish our wires back through the knockouts, starting with our whole zone bundle here. Feed the wires through the hole. We've got our transformer, siren, and keypad wires through the other hole. Pull them through, and line up with our holes. Get our screws, and we'll replace our drill bit with a Phillips head screw bit to get this in nice and easy. Good thing we've got plenty of screws. Like I said, we've got plenty of screws. Awkward to do up on a ladder here, but I'm getting there, just enough to hold it. Okay, we've got our two up top. Finalize our last one. Now our can, nice and secure to the wall. So, the next step in the process is to connect everything. So what we want to do first is our keypads. We've got our keypads twisted together here, and as we said before, the Destiny keypads actually have six wires, unlike the Honeywell keypads that use just four. So there are two for a speaker and then four for the data and the power to the keypads. So we've got our six pairs here, and we're going to want to see where these are terminated at the keypad to make sure we land them in the right spot on the board. Once we twist all our pairs, then we can land them to the ECP terminals, terminals four through seven on the Vista 21IP board. You can see on the 21IP we've got all our terminal screws along the bottom. They are all labeled. The first two are AC, we've got bell for the siren, along with ground, auxiliary, green and yellow for the data, for the ECP, which is these four through seven, and then it goes through the zone connections. We have 14 zones from our old destiny panel. Our 21IP is an eight zone panel, but what we're going to do is use some zone doubling to make use of the existing eight and turn them into a total of 15 possible zones so that we do not have to use any zone expansion boards or anything like that. We're going to have to use new resistors. The resistor value on the old Destiny board is a different value than what the 21IP needs. The 21IP needs 2K resistors, run in series for each zone. So we're going to have to take all the resistors off, and connect them with zone-doubling resistors that comes with the 21IP, we'll show that in a minute. So we've got our brand-new Honeywell transformer. We've got our black and our red AC transformer leads. Just simply hook them a little bit and get it nice and tight with the screw. With these transformers polarity does not matter, so red and black can go to either terminal. You just want to make sure obviously that it's one to one. And then when your screw is tightened down you've got good connection. Nice and tight, and we now have our AC power red and black connected. We do not want to plug it in quite yet. You always want to make your connections at the panel before you actually are going to plug the transformer in, otherwise you're dealing with hot live wires over here and you may do damage to the board. So we've got our label showing transformer, black and the red that match. Again, polarity does not matter. So you've got our first two terminals labeled AC on our 21IP. Again we got stranded wire here so we just want to twist these down so it's a nice clean connection into the screw terminals. Because the transformer's not plugged in, these wires are not live. Good to go. You unscrew the terminal, gives you a little bit of room underneath the metal bracket in the back of the terminal, and then you just screw it down for a nice tight connection. We've got our black negative connected, and now our positive. So now we have our AC power wire good to go. Next one we're going to connect is our siren wire. For our siren, we also have black and red, this time polarity does matter, though. Twist our ends, and so we've got terminal screw three as bell. Four is ground, ground is our negative power terminal and this bell is our positive siren output. When the alarm kicks on, or goes into alarm mode, gives voltage to this terminal which drives the power out to the siren so they can make the noise, hopefully scare away the intruder, let everyone know that there's been a break in. So this is obviously for a wired siren. He's got an existing wired siren. One upstairs and then with the old Destiny, because they keypads were a siren themselves that was the only siren he really had, was the one upstairs. His other two keypads were acting as sirens at the front door and the garage door, the other two points of entry into the house. So he had enunciation upstairs in the master bedroom and then you had your front door garage door, so we're really just right now connecting in the siren that's upstairs. Once we get everything connected if that siren is not going to be loud enough, we can always add in an extra wired siren. A 712, or a 702 is a nice, loud siren. Those are Honeywell model numbers. Otherwise we can go ahead and add a wireless siren might make it a little bit easier. 5800 wave, that one just simply plugs into an outlet. But we're going to deal with getting all the zones connected, keypads and then we'll look at that later. So now that we have our AC power, and our siren connected. The next thing we want to do is our keypads. Because the Apex keypads, the Destiny keypads have six connectors, we want to go take a look at our keypads and identify which wires these are so we know which to land to for power and data for the 21IP. We'll take a short break here. We'll go over and take a look at the keypads and we'll be right back. We've got our wires written down, which wire is going to what at the panel. So I know that my blue wire, connected to my red here, is coming from the negative ECP terminal, or the ground of the keypad bus on the panel. I know that my green, which is connected to purple is to my ECP positive terminal. Or my aux power, so this is plus and minus for power to the keypad, and on the keypad itself you've got this strip of four screw terminals. You've got negative and plus in the middle, and you've got your data, you've got your green and your yellow on the outside. So again we've got blue going to ground, green going to aux power. We've got our green and white which is to purple coming from our green. So that's going to go to our G. They conveniently labeled the data as green and yellow. And then finally I've got my yellow wire. I do my best to keep it easy, so yellow connected to white is going to go to yellow.