Honeywell VISTA-20P
Wired Alarm Control Panel
The Honeywell ADEMCO VISTA 20P is one of Honeywell's most popular panels. If you are looking for a state-of-the art, wired security system capable of modern, sophisticated security and home automation, look no further than the VISTA 20P.
Description
The Honeywell VISTA-20P is an alarm control panel and a member of the Honeywell VISTA Series of security systems. This workhorse of a panel has been around for a very long time, once being known as the ADEMCO VISTA 20P. While the VISTA-20P is considered a residential alarm control panel, it is certainly equipped with enough features to be used in light commercial settings as well. The VISTA-20P consists of a circuit board installed inside of a metal alarm cabinet. Alarm keypads, hardwired alarm devices, wireless receivers, wired expansion modules, programmable relays and alarm sirens can all be connected to the alarm control panel’s circuit board to customize your security system. Unlike the self-contained wireless alarm control panels such as the Honeywell LYNX Plus or Honeywell LYNX Touch, the VISTA-20P alarm control panel will need to be paired with at least (1) alarm keypad to control the security system.
The Honeywell VISTA-20P alarm control panel supports up to (64) total zones of protection. There are (8) hardwired zones built into the alarm control panel itself. Using the zone doubling feature, you can expand those (8) zones up to a total of (15) zones. You can also add wired or wireless expansion modules to expand the total number of zones. When upgraded with a Honeywell 5881ENH unlimited zone wireless receiver, you can add up to (56) wireless zones using any of the Honeywell 5800 Series wireless devices for a total of (64) zones of protection. You can also use hardwired zone expanders, like the Honeywell 4219, if you would like to use up to (48) wired zones. Zones 49 - 64 are classified as button zones, also known as key fob zones. However, these zones can actually be used as any type of wireless zone, if the need arises. Zone 1 on the VISTA-20P is setup by default as a fire protection zone and supports up to (16) two-wire smoke detectors but can also be reprogrammed for any other zone type as well.
The Honeywell VISTA-20P can also be partitioned, and features (2) partitions which can protect (2) independent areas. There is also an optional 3rd partition called a common partition. You are able to arm either partition, while leaving the common area disarmed so that either of the primary partitions is accessible. When both partitions 1 and 2 are armed, the common partition will automatically arm as well. The Honeywell VISTA-20P is controlled by wired alarm keypads and you can add up to (8) console keypads such as the Honeywell 6150, Honeywell 6150RF, or Honeywell 6160V. In addition to the (8) console keypads, you can also add up to (4) touchscreen keypads, including the Honeywell Tuxedo Touch or Honeywell Tuxedo Touch WIFI using the (4) AUI device addresses.
We do not recommend using an AUI touchscreen keypad to program your Honeywell VISTA-20P. In fact, a fixed English console keypad such as the Honeywell 6148 is not recommended for alarm control panel programming either as you will not be able to navigate any of the menu-driven programming locations with this type of keypad. Alarm Grid suggests at least one alphanumeric alarm keypad such as the Honeywell 6160 to be installed with your VISTA-20P for full programming access. The Honeywell 6160RF alarm keypad with unlimited zone wireless receiver is an ideal addition to a VISTA-20P alarm control panel as it upgrades the VISTA-20P with (56) available wireless zones and provides access to the advanced programming menus using a single device.
The Honeywell alarm control panel is powered by an included plug-in 120VAC input to 16.5VAC output (25VA) step-down transformer (Honeywell 1321) which must be wired to terminals 1 and 2 on the VISTA-20P alarm control panel’s terminal strip. Terminals 4 and 5 provide auxiliary power (up to a maximum of 12VDC, 600mA) for powering devices like keypads, motion detectors, glass break detectors, etc. Terminals 3 and 4 supply up to a 12VDC, 2AMP alarm output for compatible sounders. When a burglar alarm is tripped, the VISTA-20P uses a steady output and when a fire alarm is tripped, a temporal pulse is used. A rechargeable sealed lead-acid type battery can also be used to provide backup power during power outages. You must use at least a 12VDC, 4AH backup battery which should provide up to (24) hours of backup power.
You can use terminals 21-24 to wire a traditional phone line to your Honeywell VISTA-20P if you want phone line alarm monitoring for your alarm control panel. As more and more security system owners are getting rid of their home telephones, the VISTA-20P is also compatible with the AlarmNet alternative alarm monitoring communicators. Add the Honeywell 7847i for internet alarm monitoring, the Honeywell LTE-XA or LTE-XV or Honeywell LTE-IV or LTE-IA for dual path monitoring which uses both internet and cellular GSM communications.
Specifications:
- Auxiliary Power: 12VDC, 600mA Maximum
- Transformer: 16.5VAC/25VA Transformer (1321)
- Alarm Output (Bell): 12VDC, 2A Maximum. For UL installations, combined Auxiliary Power and Bell Output cannot exceed 700mA
- Output Control: Supports up to 16 programmable relays with two built-in on-board programmable triggers
- Zones Total: Up to 64
- Zones Wired: 8 built-in wired zones, up to 40 wired expansion zones using the 4219 or 4229
- Zones Wireless: Up to 56 wireless zones with a high-capacity receiver like the 6160RF
- Keypad Support: Supports up to eight (8) push-button keypads and up to four (4) AUI Touchscreen keypads
Honeywell VISTA-20P Compatible Products
Reviews
Vista 20-P
Submitted on 09/25/2013 Jason Cleary
Submitted on 09/25/2013 Jason Cleary
I'm a long time Vista user, since the Vista 5.
I was delighted to hear the Vista 20 can now interface to my Ericsson T-68i as i have already implemented a voice command system, eg, when i say " Office" or " Control Room" (sometimes i have to say these commands twice) the T-68i runs and internal batch file on the sub-processor and engages the software functions to work accordingly.
Do you think there will be a code release to interface the Vista 20 to my automated dog feeding setup? Essentially its a set of macros that run server-side and enable windows core services to allow machine code, that in turn enables virtual relays & I/O to lift a flap on the dog food container, once my pet comes within proximity range ( 15-30cm) of the embedded receiver on his bowl.
I look forward to Honeywells response. Thanks, Jason Cleary
DIY Install
Submitted on 09/12/2012 CLARK
Write a Review
Submitted on 09/12/2012 CLARK
Did a DIY install of the Vista 20p. Coupled it with the Tuxedo touch. I don't think I've evr had more fun. I'm not a giant alarm system nerd, so I don' tknow what's out there as an alternative, but this was a blast to install, and I like the functionality of tthe Tuxedo Touch. It looks great, and it functions awesome.
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Hey Mason, the terminal screws are a non-serviceable part and as such we do not carry them on our site. If you have any unused terminals I would recommend taking the screw from your unused terminal and use it to replace the screw you are missing. Another option would be taking the screw from one of the unused terminals to your local hardware store and ask if they are able to sell you a screw that matches.
what is the size of the screws for terminals on the vista 20p bored?
Martin, did you figure out what caused your "KYPD LB" fault? I also have a Vista20P and had a similar issue. The difference in my case is that when the fault occurred, the panel sent a duress signal (silent panic). So, I didn't know anything was wrong until the police came to my home! I have auxiliary power and even replaced both of my system backup batteries. I thought that solved the problem until it happened again!
I started researching every component of my system and discovered that my RF Repeater (5800RP) has an internal backup battery. I've had it 6 years and didn't know! That was the culprit. Apparently, the system interpreted it as a keypad low batt, but all mine are wired. I contributed to the problem because I failed to set up an RF zone for the low battery condition. So, for reasons I don't understand, the condition was associated with my duress zone.
So the solution required 2 steps... Replacing the Ni-MH backup battery in the RF Repeater and creating a new zone for handling the low batt condition (as described in the 5800RP documentation). I actually created the zone before replacing the battery to make sure this would handle the condition (in a manner more desirable than having the police visit!). I immediately got a message that the RF Repeater battery was low. Problem solved.
I just wanted to post my experience in case anyone else encounters the same problem.
Hi Martin,
Some things you've mentioned that we may have answers for. Do you have any 6150RF keypads on your system (technically only 1 receiver is supported but can have a 6150RF in local Receiver mode to support key fobs)? Do you have any Key fobs that you use to arm and disarm the system? LB may be linked to a locally programmed key fob into the 6150RF keypad if there is one on site. Which if a key fob panic button was accidentally pressed could cause the zone 99 alarm.
Hope this info helps.
I have a Vista20p with 4 wired keypads, wireless 5881L, however lately I have been getting the following fault message "KYPD LB".
As I mentioned they are all wired keypads. Yesterday the alarm went off in the middle of the day and the keypad showes "Zone 99" with the "KYPD LB"., however no one pushed the panic alarm...
Any idea what is casuing my problem? Is my factory power supply underpowered for my system causing this anomaly?
Thanks,
Hi Song, Unfortunately there is not a command to display the Zone programming definitions. The only way to view how each zone is programmed is through zone programming in *56 and looking at each individual zone setup.
Thank you Freddie for your reply. I know how to go through each zone to find out how it is setup. Is there a command that would return a list of all the zones settings. For example if I have 10 zones enabled and setup and I want to know how they are setup. Is there a command to return all the zone setup at once. Thanks.
Sure, check the programming guide page 39. https://www.alarmgrid.com/documents/honeywell-vista-15p-vista-20p-program-guide-dated-03-15-rev-b
We have a vista 20p and have setup with zones. We would like to know if there is a programming command that would tell us a list of all the definition of the enabled zones . Thanks.
Adding the 6160RF would be a good option as it's a programming keypad and a receiver. Here is some info on setting this up: https://www.alarmgrid.com/faq/how-do-i-enable-the-wireless-receiver-in-a-honeywell-6160rf
I have a vista 20p and I need to add wireless connection. Is it better to get an addon wireless connector or a new keypad. I am currently with ADT and want to do the addons myself.
Thanks! You folks have figured all sorts of stuff out!
Hey Jonathan. I wouldn't recommend it, as car batteries work with significantly more amperage than regular alarm panel batteries. Instead, you could connect two High Capacity batteries in parallel https://www.alarmgrid.com/products/ultratech-1270. We have an article on our site explaining how to use a second battery, I'll link it here: https://www.alarmgrid.com/faq/how-do-i-add-a-second-battery-to-my-vista-p-series-panel
Odd question, but can I use a 12v car battery (with a 12v voltage regulator if need be) as a backup battery for this system? When outages happen here, they're typically multi-day up to a week. I ask because some panels trickle charge the backup battery and trickle charging a car battery would likely overheat the panel.
Hi Nick, I haven't gone through the setup for an external siren on the DSC Impassa, but it appears they have a couple of low current outputs (PGM1 and PGM2) that only output about 50mA of current. Not knowing how much your siren draws, I would assume it's more than 50mA. So, you'd need to add a low current relay and a power supply in order to use the existing siren with the panel. It appears the Impassa can use wireless sirens such as the <a href="https://www.alarmgrid.com/products/dsc-wt4911b">DSC WT4911B</a> which might be cheaper and easier to use.
Thank you so much Julia. I also had another question about my DSC impassa security system. So I have a generic square siren that you’d see on a lot of systems. It’s by atw it looks a lot like the Honeywell/ademco 747. I don’t know about the same voltage but the front fascia looks the exact same. I want to know how to wire this siren to my dsc impassa system. Let me know what you think
Hi Nick, I'm glad I've been able to assist you in the past. The field you're looking for is programming location *197, Exit Time Display Interval. If you set this to a 1, you'll get a second-by-second countdown, i.e., 60, 59, 58, etc. If you set this to a 2, you'll get an every 2-second interval countdown, i.e., 60, 58, 56, etc. You can set this field to anything from 1 - 5, 5 being a 5-second interval countdown. To get here, you enter Installer Code + 8 + 00, once in programming, press *197, enter a digit 1 - 5, you should hear a triple-beep. Then enter *99 to exit programming.
Hi Julia, I’ve believe I’ve talked to you before about a DSC system. The advice was great and I was happy to get the answer and solution to my problem. I now have a question about this system. How do I program it to show the exit delay in seconds when it says “Armed *Away* May Exit Now (amount of seconds till armed) For me it just says “Armed *Away* You May Exit Now” giving no reading on how many seconds are left. I know my exit delay is 60 seconds but I would like to see it visually as well. Please let me know what I can do.
Thanks!
-Nick
Hi John,
So the 20p cannot use Vplex modules like the 4208, so if you were wanting to keep those in place you would need to use a 128bpt. If you were just wanting to replace those expanders with a 4219 you could use the 20p.
Hello Darrell,
Thanks for the quick reply. Does the Vector 3000 use V-Plex modules? I found two Ademco 4208 modules installed near the Vector panel. Not sure how that affects replacing the Vector 3000.
If so, would the 20P still be appropriate?
Hello John, Yes a 20p would be a recommended replacement, which would allow you to use up to 8 hardwired zones or up to 15 hardwired zones if you use the special feature of the 20p called zone doubling. You can also add additional wireless zones. If you have any questions our planner team would be happy to help.
Hello,
I have an old Vector 3000 (4153) alarm system with the Ademco 733 siren driver. Would a Vista 20 or 15 be a recommended replacement system that can use all of the existing wiring/sensors?
Thank you.
I have a Vista 20p that is about 20 years old. I want to replace it but wanted to know if the current model will allow me to used my two existing 6270 keypads.
Building a new house. Panel looks like a vista 20p. Can you provide more specs for the 6290? Wireless arming/disarming? Also can I just swap out my panel with the 6290?
Hi Chris,
I'm glad you found us and we'd be happy to help. You can certainly replace the system with a new one but we also have many other options you should explore as well. Are you able to call us M-F 9-8 EST at 888-818-7728 or email us at support@alarmgrid.com referencing this page so we can discuss further?
I recently bought a house that came with a Vista 20P control panel and 2 honeywell 6160 keypads. I do not know the system code and all efforts to reset the master code and use the backdoor method have failed. I’m certain that the system has been locked by the previous installer. If I purchase a new Vista 20P to replace the old one would that reset everything back to the factory defaults? Or would I just need to install a new keypad to reset the codes?
Hi Demeria,
What kind of sensor are you looking for?
Where can I get a replacement sensor for the Vista 20P
Hi Clay, please email us at support@alarmgrid.com
Hi! I recently bought a model home and it has this panel and corresponding key pads installed. However, once the developer handed the keys over, they unhooked all of this. I am left with a two keypads, siren, and a bunch of sensors that all don't do anything. I opened the panel box and all the cords are disconnected from the panel. How would I know which cord goes to which little slot?
I recommend the LT cable for quick rebooting: https://www.alarmgrid.com/products/honeywell-lt-cable. If you want to source cabling locally I would pickup 18 AWG 2 conductor (18/2) cable.
Hi! What type of wire should I use for the transformer?
I wouldn't think that changing the time on the Tux would change the programming lockout but if you were able to get in properly this time, you should be good going forward.
We look forward to working with you down the road!
Just powered down and was able to enter Installer mode. Have no idea what happend. Funny my field is computer networks and I just want to go back through the logs to see what happen. :). I did see that my TUX had the wrong time yeaterday and set it. It asked if I wanted the time on the panel set too and I said yes. Wondering if something there messed it up. Yeah I don't want to even look at *88 to see what it's set to. Will be switching to you com as soon as my contract is up. Appreciate all the helpful info you provide.
Yes, *98 would be the lockout exit mode, and depending on how your monitoring company has set field *88, it may have locked you out of using the code + 800 AND also locked you out of the backdoor method.
It also may have been unlocked remotely by them as that certainly is possible. We've also heard of many people accidentally exiting with *98 when they meant to do *99.
At this point, it sounds like you'll have to hope your monitoring company is going to do the right thing and allow you access back into the panel programming. How much longer do you have on your contract?
After reading all you postings I see that *98 can do this however I was not even aware of this exit option. I always used *99 but I guess I could have fat fingered it. But what are the odds of that. It is monitored (stuck in contract).
I was in there on Tuesday without issue. If it can be unlocked remotely can it be locked remotely? Wondering if my monitoring company would have locked it out.
No, but depending on what you (or whoever was last in programming) pressed to exit programming from the last time you were in programming, you may have locked yourself out of being able to get back into programming. Is your system monitored? If so, there's a chance they can unlock the programming for your remotely.
After entering my Installer code and 800 I receive a long beep and then nothing happens. Entering the wrong code and 800 does nothing. About to power off and on the system but wanted to see if anyone knew what the issue may be. I know I am using the correct IC however I did enter it incorrectly a few times prior (no beep) and then had to go look at my notes and verified what I had set it to. After verifying I am now getting a long beep. Will the system lock you out if the wrong code is entered too many times for a period of time?
Thanks!
No, that doesn't sound normal at all considering the system is low voltage and should only be drawing a minimal amount of power. You could always power it down by unplugging the wall transformer to see how that affects the next electricity bill.
Has anyone heard of an electricity bill climbing more than 3 times the norm after installation of a Vista 20P?
What are the model numbers of the keypads connected?
Do you have key fobs (key chain remotes to arm/disarm with a button press) perhaps?
What is the actual alarm message being reported to your central station?
Morning all... I have successfully installed the Vista 20p and have two keyboards. For the last 2-3 months I've been getting calls relating to a low battery. The keypad at the panel says KEY LB, both keypads are hardwired. The Vista 20p I just put in a new battery, I'm not sure what the issue could be, Any thoughts and more troubleshooting tips? A way to pinpoint the Low Battery issue, if in fact it is signaling from the Panel or if one of the keypads are triggering it?
A higher Ah battery would just provide longer backup battery run time.
So after replacing the new battery, I could have going to a high amp battery
Hmm did you check for continuity on the wire to ensure there are no shorts or breaks in the wire? Also, is the input type set to EOLR?
Hi, yes constant fault. I described how I wired it in my original post. At the motion from left to right red, black, green, white. thx
Is it in a constant faulted state? How did you wire it at the motion?
Hi, I installed a vista 20p and a hardwired Honeywell Aurora PIR motion sensor. I hooked up the wires in the sensor from left to right as follows: RED,BLACK,GREEN,WHITE. And in the panel as follows: BLACK to screw #4, RED to screw #5, GREEN with 2000 ohm resistor to screw #17 and WHITE to screw 16 (ground). I then enable it in my 6160 Honeywell keypad to Zone Type 04 Interior Follower. But it now reads Zone 6 Faulted on my keypad. I have no idea why and can't figure out why it's doing this. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
It will. If you have the installation Instructions, on page 2-2 there is a chart showing various calculations and the batteries recommended for supporting them. It goes all the way up to 18Ah.
Sterling, I have a question on my system Vista 20P rom 10.23, How much Voltage plus Current Value does this board put out,,, Reason for this is that, need to replace the backup battery, looking at 12Volt 7.5AH battery for replacement will this board support and charge this battery when install???
Thanks
You would just choose the communicator for the carrier that has coverage in your area. We activate the SIM and include the cellular rate in the price of the cellular based monitoring so all you need to do is install the right communicator and sign up for the right plan (at least the Gold/Self Gold or higher at https://www.alarmgrid.com/monitoring ).
Frank, thanks for the reply. So you have too pick a carrier in your area??
or do you pick a communicator for the carrier of choice??
Cellular communicators come pre-activated by the carrier. Your monitoring company will cover cellular data charges with the carrier and bundle those charges into a flat monthly rate. For example our gold and self gold plans include cellular data.
Internet communicators prefer to be DHCP and dynamically get assigned their own IP address. You should not have to do anything special with your network.
Sterling, thanks for the reply, But do you need to add a Cellar Carrier for the cellular communicator to work??? that would be extra cost true??
For the internet communicator just plug into your router or switch let it assign a Ip number??
thanks
Ah, okay. Thanks for letting us know what you found. Feel free to email support@alarmgrid.com if you need further assistance.
Not sure if the switch I found would fit or not, and I don't want to try to tap threads in the side of the box. Turns out it is the back switch that is faulty, and that protects against someone removing the box from the building. I don't think that is much of an issue given how it is mounted, so I just bypassed that switch and all is working well.
Can you email what's printed on the PROM chip in the middle of the green circuit board to support@alarmgrid.com so that we can provide you with options? The PROM should start with 'WA'.
I bought a house with an installed system already from ADT and it's safewatch pro3000 and I'm sure it is the vista 20p. How can I switch the monitoring to you?
You don't need any extra equipment as the panel has a built-in phone dialer. With that said, it's highly recommended that you add an internet or cellular communicator instead as phone line alarm monitoring is no longer reliable.
Hi Julia, thanks for the fast reply on my question that has bothered me for sometime now..since the programing the unit..
One other thing If I wanted to monitor over telephone lines, what other equipment would I need to be added for this????
No, when arming Honeywell panels, you always get exit delay. Just let it count down, and then you'll be in night stay mode.
Sterling,
Thanks for the speedy reply, I apply the setting that was listed everything work according like stated, thanks for the help..
One other Question that is that when I put the unit in Night Stay mode, display is saying You can exit now????
Does it go into a different mode if you do not open any of the exit entry doors????
You would have to enter programming mode by entering installer code + 800 and then go to the *57 Function Key Programming menu. It should read Press Key to Pgm and you'd press the D function key and then *. Next, enter the partition you want the function active for (I'd assume 1) and then *. Finally enter 02 * for Display Time option and then 0 to quit the mode and * 99 to exit programming.
Yes, replacing the switch sounds like a good and inexpensive fix. Let us know if that solves the issue or not.
Hi Julia,
Have the Vista 20P with 10.23 rom, keypads are 6150, 6160RF want to add to the feature key (D) panic mode or press key to display time & date function,
what program numbers do I need????
Notice The 6160 and the 6150 have 4 keypad panic keys that can be programmed for fire, medical, police and a silent alarm.
any help here thanks
That zone is an End of Line resistor. (All our zones are that.) It is zone 8. You are correct on the back (against house) and front (cover) for the tamper switches. It is the one for the cover that seems bad. Pressing the button in to simulate closing the cover shows intermittent connectivity, so hopefully that is what is wrong. The system worked for about 20 years before we started getting failures on that zone with the system not armed. (I.e., this is not a new installation that I've messed up.) That's what led me to suspect the board rather than switch or wiring - it was giving us failures (not fault) when the system was not armed. We'd get a fast series of beeps and the panel would tell us that Zone 8 had a failure.
With that switch physically bypassed (actually both tamper switches - I shorted across that lead in the panel box) the system works fine. Other than replacing the tamper switch I can't think of anything to try.
There can be a lot of variables in the situation you describe in paragraph one. Is that zone using an End of Line Resistor? It also may make a difference which zone number it is, for example, tolerance for resistance is lower on zone 1 than on other zones in the 20P family of panels.
If there are 2 tamper switches on the bell, I assume one is for the cover, and the other is for the back of the unit, where it mounts to the wall, and since you say they're in series, I assume they are normally closed, any idea which tamper it is you're having the issue with? I would say no, to your question, if the tamper switch is changing state from good to bad, then it should show good, then bad on the system.
I don't understand the electronics behind the zone switches. I've one zone with 4 items in series. That zone gives a failure regularly even when the system is not armed. Open a door and the zone should fault - fine. Close everything and it should be ready to arm - fine. But apparently the zone is neither faulted (switch open) or good (all switches closed). I can't figure out what a switch can be if not open or closed.
I've traced it to the outside bell. Inside there are two tamper switches connected in series. One of the switches seems intermittent based on holding a meter to the terminals and operating the switch. Is the system smart enough to know if a switch is intermittent to flag a failure?
Assuming I just need to replace a tamper switch, where's the best place to get one?
Perfect. Thanks. Hardware testing this weekend on the failed sensor..... Then when all is well I'd like to split some zones.
Yes, check 100 means the panel thinks you have RF expansion, so it expects to see a receiver set to address 00 (Check 1 + address, in this case, Check 100). If you don't have RF on the system, and you didn't program any zones with an RF, UR, or BR input type (03, 04, or 05) then it could be the RF House Code in *24. In panel programming, press *24 then 00, 00, 00, you should hear a triple beep after the last 0, then *99 and see if the check 100 returns. If it does, you have to have a zone in there somewhere with a wireless input type.
Got the keypad working. Now need to resolve the 100 RF Receiver.
Great - that fixed that issue, and programming potentially complete.
Now when I get the system up I get a "Check 100 RF Receiver" error. I have no RF involved, so apparently I need to tell the system that something is not used. Suggestion?
I also have the same problem I initially have but after going through the installation process I have identified that the switch on the outside bell is causing a problem. I'll troubleshoot that after the rest of the system is functional.....
The 20HW was a non-addressable panel, meaning the keypads would all be set to address 31, and would work. I suspect when you press 1 & 3 you'll see Console Addr = 31. In order to change the address, you'll need to power down the keypad. Check out paragraph 3 here: https://www.alarmgrid.com/faq/how-do-you-address-a-honeywell-alarm-keypad. Your keypad is a 6139 rather than a 6160, but the process for addressing is the same. If you have multiple keypads, each will need a different address (16, 17, 18, and so on). Depending on the version of your new panel, you may need to enable any address above 16.
You probably need to address it to address 16. What happens when you press and hold 1 and 3 on the keypad?
https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/4f2e670c4f73c768cb4a70a0af17f55b799ca214b5047a8303f30cedabb4ccfe.jpg
Just finished installing my 20P, replacing a 20 year old 20HW that appeared to fail. I carefully labeled each wire and put them on the same terminal on the new board, checking to see that it made sense for the new installation manual for double-checking. Double checked for good connections carefully - not unfamiliar territory for me.
Ready to try programming it. When I plug the unit in the keypads give a tone and show shaded boxes across the display for about 1 second, then there is a sound like a relay click in the box and there is nothing useful. Pressing keys on the key pad make a tone, but it does not go into programming mode or show anything on the display.
Any suggestions on where to start?
You could have your company out to check the phone connections and the panel itself.
I tried power cycling it ( pulled the battery and power adapter for about a minute before powering back up). Reconnected the phone line and still have the same issue. :-( any other suggestions before replacing the panel?
That panel can certainly be uploaded and downloaded so it really depends on the alarm monitoring company you used and whether or not they ever connected to the panel and uploaded the settings.
Thanks.....I'll try power cycling the system next chance I get. Long story....I am actually the installer, sort-of. My father's company was an alarm contractor before he closed shop in 2008, and he passed away in 2012. We installed the system sometime around 2006/2007, I think (I was really just helping him with the cabling and stuff that he couldn't easily do - he did ALL of the programming. I know the installer code, I just can't remember if the programming can be downloaded...and/or how it would be downloaded. My father did everything the old-fashioned way...not that its a bad thing, but it is time consuming and easy to make a mistake. That's why I was asking about downloading. It is Rev 5.2 if that helps.
I would first try power cycling before replacing the panel. Depending on your company, they may or may not be able to send down a copy of your current programming to a new panel if a new panel is required.
Hi Sterling - thanks very much for the response. I have not attempted power cycling the system yet, I was very short on time. I simply disconnected the phone line from the screw terminals as a short term work-around until I could get back to it. Yes, we are presently under a monitoring contract with a local provider.
Have you tried power cycling the system? Are you monitored through the phone line?
I have a 20P that was apparently damaged in a lightning storm over the phone line. The system is fully functional, but kills the phone line when it is connected. Take it out of the picture and all the phones in the house work. Question - if I get a new 20p to replace it, is there any way to download the programming form the existing board to the new board, or am I gonna have to redo everything manually?
If you already have door and window contacts installed at the peripheral end - you can close them all and use continuity at the demarc by opening each door/window. If you do have contacts installed you can just land them on wired panel and program the zones as perimeter. Then just open and close the doors to see which zone number they are connected to.
Hi Frank,
thanks for your response, unfortunately, by home is already build, and I am unable to pull the wires from the door frame etc. I also believe I have some wired to the smoke alarms. Basically I have a whole bunch of wires at demarc and no way of knowing which one goes where. Could I use the continuity tester and start opening doors? Or could I use a resistance meter and start opening doors until I find the right one? Just wondering if there was a tool professionals used to work around this issue. I think nowadays most people just say forget it and go with the wireless system, which I find redundant in this case since my house was prewired.
Get a toner (aka tone generator), ideally one with a continuity tester built into it. From the peripheral locations connect the toner on the pair of wires using the alligator clips (must be on bare copper so strip the ends) and put it in tone mode. Go back to the centralized location (aka demarc) where all the wires are home run to. Use the wand (listening device that will make noise when it is touching the proper pair) to identify which pair your toner is connected to. Then label your wire with the location where the toner is setup. To be sure this is the proper wire you can then strip the ends of that pair at the demarc and twist them together. Then go back to the toner and switch it to continuity mode (aka "cont"). If the LED is lit then you have continuity and the circuit is shorted. This means it is definitely that pair and the sound is not bleeding over from another pair in the wall. You will get a feel for the toner and when the sound is loud and clear enough to the proper pair. You can look up some youtube videos on toner identification to get a better idea of how this is accomplished. I recommend the Fluke Pro 3000 Tone and Probe kit.
Hi, What is the easiest way to figure out which wires are for which doors/smoke alarms in a prewired home? I have a Multimeter for resistance, but how will this help me with knowing the smoke alarms?
Sterling, thank you-
No, end of line would be at the end of the loop for the zone out in the field.
You don't need a siren driver if you get a self contained siren like the 702. You would simply wire the siren back to the panel's bell output. The 702 draws up to 1.2A so you'd have 800mA left over for other sirens or strobes.
Hi Sterling,when you say end of the line, I take it you mean at the panel.... and ELK make a few different models, I just need a efficient unit (if available) in a small stainless box, the other siren driver goes in the large shop/garage in the truss section(702 honeywell wired for yelp mode). I don't know if the 2 amps will run 2 sirens and a thyristor strobe light.. do you ?
Resistors are used to supervise the wiring between a sensor and the panel. Each zone (can be one sensor or a group of sensors wired in series) should have a 2k resistor wired at the end of the line to supervise the wiring.
What are you connecting to the Elk siren driver? The panel's bell output supports up to 2A max.
Good morning. after buying a vista 20(still in box) last august, its time to wire it in (to all the zones), 2 questions please- 1- why do you or when do you need to employ resistors ? 2 - the 702 siren driver is just one unit i provided for, i would like to add a ELK sire driver to the far end of the house under the eve..AND mount the yellow thyristor flashing strobe to the front eve...Im going to need an additional power source I believe, if so, any tips ? all the wire is run and hidden well now (new build)..thanks for any and all input-
You don't need a resistor as you can program zones (2-8) to be normally closed or normally open. However, it is recommended that you program the zone to be EOLR (end of line resistor) and that you wire a resistor in series at the sensor.
Morning all... Question regarding hardwiring door entry/exit sensor. If only one sensor is on the zone do I need an EOL resistor?
Yes you are perfectly right about that ....Thank you always learning
I'm glad to hear it's working now. Your other siren must have been over-drawing the bell output on the panel.
I changed the siren to a HONEYWELL SENSORS 719 ADEMCO 5"ELECT.SIREN,6-12VDC and it worked ..I think the older one maybe a higher amps
This is a classic symptom of too much current draw on the bell output. It could be due to the number of devices connected, and how much they draw,or it could be due to a battery issue, as the bell circuit on that panel gets most of the 2 Amps of available bell current from the system battery.
How many sirens do you have connected? Do you have the model number for the sirens?
sorry one keypad 2 sets photoelectric perimeter sensors
one keypad
How many devices do you have connected to the panel's ECP bus (terminals 4-7)?
I 've set up vista 20p systen programmed for 4 mins bell time out when alarm trips siren make one quick sound and stopped, but the keypad keep blaring for the 4 mins ...I took siren wire and make direct contact to battery and siren is working what may be problem..
Happy to help and glad to hear it wasn't a bigger panel issue.
Okay that makes total sense - that was the problem - some zones were faulted while programming was taking place and so were not immediately visible to the system afterwards. Thank you!
If zones are faulted while in programming, the system won't see those faults and it can take some time after exiting programming for the faults to show up. However, if you have all your zones closed and then exit programming, the faults should work as soon as you open a door or window.
You can also power cycle the system after exiting programming if you don't want to wait for the zones faulted when in programming to show they are in fault.
I have a question on this Vista 20P control board with wireless 5883H module. Every time I exit the programming mode, it takes sometimes hours for the system to detect any faults with sensors and to start properly reporting on the status of each zone. What is its behavior after exiting the programming more (*56 menu)
Yes, you can fully power down without losing any system programming.
I need to move the control board into a new enclosure to clean up several other aesthetic issues. Will the unit retain its programming if I remove the primary and backup power? I'll need to remove and reconnect every wire from the board, and I would prefer that the power was completely removed.
You may have a problem with the internal charging circuit of the control panel. If that's true, you'll need a new 20P system.
My Honeywell Vista 20p back up battery keeps decharging and I have replaced it 3 times this year.
I live in a rural area with power surges, and some short power failures. I asked a technician and he doesn't know why.
Do you have any ideas?
I get a BAT sign on my panel after less than 2 months.
Pam
No the 7847i only uses the panel's ECP power and the back up battery for the panel.
does the 7847i come with a battery?
If you have a power outage, the battery kicks in. Once the battery runs the panel for awhile (with the power off), it drains the battery and eventually causes the low battery alert. As soon as power comes back on, the panel should recharge the battery so the alert goes away.
Therefore, if you do have frequent power outages, it could be as simply as the panel is acting as expected. If you get low battery alerts when there aren't long power outages, there could be something wrong with the internal charging circuit of the panel or you could have a bad battery.
Okay, I don't need the connect 2. The battery back up with my vista 20P doesn't work very well I have to replace it about 3 times a year. We get a lot of power surges in our area, and I think it doesn't reconnect to the power after a failure. I can't think of another reason why it runs out so quickly. They're expensive, so I'm trying the UPS battery back up to see if it helps...any other ideas as to why this happens?
The alarm system control panel itself has a battery back up. You shouldn't need to have that plugged into a separate battery back up. Also, the alarm system keypads are powered by that control panel so it should just be a matter of putting the router and the 7847i on a battery back up.
Total Connect 2.0 is a newer interface with more detailed level of text/emails alerts. You can get alerts with the specific user that armed or disarmed and the specific zone name/number that was activated as opposed to generic messages on TC1.0.
Ie I'm trying to get the router, the alarm box and the 7847i all plugged into the same UPS battery back up...
No,it's more:
Running an alarm wire from the alarm box in the basement up to the second floor to plug in there.
The router and 7847i (wired by cable from alarm box up) would be on the second floor.
On the second floor I would have a UPS battery back up with the router and 7847i plugged in.
If I can extend the alarm wire from the basement alarm box up to the second floor, then I could have just one UPS backup. But not sure if the alarm box can be plugged in 45 feet away from the box.
The control panel is on the main floor, but I don't think it has anything to do with this.
Alternatively I could move the router and the 7847i into the basement next to the alarm box but it's an unfinished basement and a bit damp.
What is your opinion,
Also, is there a difference between 7847i connect 1.0 and connect 2.0? Thanks
Pam
Okay, just making sure. Yes, you can run a 4-conductor alarm wire from the panel to your router location so that you can mount the 7847i right by the router and connect it via Ethernet so that you only need one battery backup for the router as opposed to one for the router and then one for the wireless network device you'd plug into the 7847i to bridge the IP connection wirelessly.
However, if you can fish that alarm wire, why not just fish an Ethernet cable so that you can install the 7847i at the panel?
Whoops. Yes
I'm not familiar with the 7641i part number. Is that a Honeywell unit? Did you perhaps mean to type 7847i?
I am adding an IP communicator (7641i) to my Vista 20 P so it can be monitorred by Interent since I've cut out my home phone line. I have bought a UPS battery back up in case of power surge/cuts, but my router is on the 2nd floor and the alarm box is in the basement. My question is: can I fish an alarm wire from the basement to the second floor ( about 45 feet) to plug it into the UPS battery back up, upstairs with the router? Rather than buy 2 UPS backups. Also is there an alternative to wireless monitorring instead of an IP communicator since that also involves wiring cable from the basement to the second floor? maybe TP-LINK TL-WPA4220KIT ADVANCED 300Mbps Universal Wi-Fi Range Extender, Repeater, AV500 Powerline Edition, Wi-Fi Clone Button, 2 LAN Ports?
You would need a wireless receiver (either standalone or integrated into an RF keypad) if you want to use Honeywell wireless sensors with the system.
Is the Vista-20P not wireless capable out of the box? Does it need an additional RF keypad or Wireless receiver to make it wireless capable? When I say wireless capable, I mean, just plug (and program) a wireless device (motion detector) and the device is ready for use...
Thanks.